Tonight I try vegan pupusas. Ah, the great taste of Latin cooking. I love pupusas. Anything made of corn flour, stuffed with cheese (in this case “cheese”), shaped like a pancake and cooked in hot oil with a salt garnish, is ok in my book.
I’ve been to many Salvadoran restaurants and they all say they make the best pupusas on the Eastern Seaboard. But to me, they all taste the same; delicious. Hearty on the inside, crispy on the outside and just salty enough for my tastes, these traditional Salvadoran corn cakes have been an eating-out staple of mine since I was a kid. Unfortunately for those vegans who are fans of pupusas, they are unattainable unless made from scratch at home. I have yet to see a pupusa on any menu without pork or at least cheese inside.
Latinos are very traditional people, traditional in their home life, culture, and especially in their cooking. This means that you would be hard pressed to find vegan Latino food. Latinos are meat and dairy eaters for sure!
I began tonight’s pupusa adventure (sounds dirty I know) by making homemade vegan mozzarella to put into the pupusas. Have I bitten off more than I can chew? Who knows?…..But After making the vegan sour cream and cream cheese for the cheesecake from scratch, I thought why stop there? In fact, I’m even going to make the vegan heavy cream all by myself rather than buying it at the store, preventing more packaging from the landfill.
And since I’m off on an environmental tangent…
Dairy products are bad for the environment (as delicious as they are). Milk, cheese, cream, butter, and all those yummy foods, they come from cows, sheep, and the like. These animals are ruminants (grass-eaters) and they emit tons of methane gas into the atmosphere, contributing to climate change. Not to mention the waste ruminants leave behind, which inevitably leaks into the surrounding groundwater. But, Unlike denser cheeses, Mozzarella may be the cheese that does the least environmental harm. Mozzarella is not aged so it requires less refrigeration energy, and requires less milk to produce. Yet, the production of any cheese is energy intensive and detrimental to the environment. So, I can feel good about switching to vegan cheese (that is, if I can pull this fake mozzarella off).
I also feel good about finding an alternative to gelatin. Agar is a gelatin type ingredient which acts as a binding agent, yet is made from seaweed rather than horse or calf hooves. The recipe for the mozzarella actually calls for Agar powder, which I couldn’t find at whole foods (the only place around that I thought would have such a thing) but I did manage to find Agar Agar flakes there.
Apparently this mozzarella “cheese” is supposed to be grateable when all is said and done. We’ll see.
As for the pupusas, well, HA! They are easy enough in concept, but must take some deeply ingrained latin cooking expertise to pull off correctly. I have visions of elderly grandmothers in El Salvador slumped over the kitchen counter with their grandkids and rolling up balls of Maseca. Perhaps if I’d had years of practice I could have pulled these pupusas off better. But, alas…..I’m going to need more practice.
In the end, the mozzarella hadn’t set yet (my own fault for starting the “cheese” thirty minutes before dinner) and I scooped, rather than grated, the “cheese” onto the corn flour patty. I had also sauteed up some onion, mushroom, and baby spinach with salt and garlic to put into the pupusas. However, unskilled I may yet be at forming the patties, they ended up tasting great fried up in canola oil and doused with salt.
Vegan Mozzarella Cheese
1 cup vegan heavy cream (¼ package of firm tofu and ¼ cup of soy milk blended together)
1 package of soft silken tofu
½ tablespoon of salt
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
4 tablespoons of Agar powder (6 or 7 tablespoons if you only have the Agar Agar flakes)
Process all the ingredients minus the Agar together until smooth and then add the Agar. Let the mixture sit for five minutes and then pour into a medium sauce pan and cover. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring frequently (about 8 minutes). Immediately pour into small baking dish to be chilled for a few hours.